Monday, March 31st, 2008
....
this Week in Wayfarers: 
* new location for the CL-16 User Forum
* CBC's Rick Mercer visits Amy Biskaborn and friends at the London velodrome
*
to glass or not to glass - that is the question
*
former W5223, Gord Zimmerman and Lady Simcoe to head south again next winter
* fond memories of those fun, informative Guelph seminars run by Tim France
* Wayfarer NCA's to get national pennants courtesy of the WIC
* Andrew Haill to experiment with Mk III drain tubes
* Kit Wallace provides us with Hartley Wayfarer brochure
*
.......
Subject: new location for the CL-16 User Forum
----- Original Message -----
From: Conrad & Cindy
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2008 5:28 PM
Subject: new CL16 Forum address

Hi Al

Here is the new link to the CL16 user form that you have linked from your links page.  This is for all those CL16 folks who where lost when the form went down and found their way to you.  It has been revamped and we are looking for all the lost sailors from the previous incarnation.

http://www.vaxxine.com/clsailboats/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php

Conrad Peters
CL16 # 1755
SeaWolf

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2008 6:13 PM

Hi, Conrad:
 
How lovely to hear from you! Have updated the link and added one to my little Forums list at the bottom right of the main table of my index page at http://www.wayfarer-canada.org/. Any sailing adventures in 2007 (or coming up this year) whose logs we can look forward to??
 
I will post your note in this coming Monday's Weekly Whiffle, in hopes that you'll find some more of the "lost" CL16 folks.
 
Best wishes for great and happy sailing in 2008!!
 
Uncle Al  (W3854)

..
Subject: CBC's Rick Mercer visits Amy Biskaborn and friends at the London velodrome
----- Original Message -----
From: Jens / Sharon BISKABORN  (W7663)
Sent: Monday, March 24, 2008 8:01 PM
Subject: Amy on the Rick Mercer show

Hi to all of you ,
 
Just a quick reminder as we can't remember who knows and who doesn't.
 
Amy was interviewed for the Rick Mercer show which airs tomorrow evening on CBC at 8 pm.  Rick came to the velodrome to have a cycling lesson and then to race one of the young fellas.  I have attached a photo of Amy with Rick Mercer so you can recognize her when she cycles by your television.  For those of you who haven't seen her for a while she is in the Trek cycling shirt.
 
Enjoy
Sharon



----- Original Message -----
To: Jens / Sharon BISKABORN
Sent: Monday, March 24, 2008 8:48 PM

Great! We watch Rick Mercer all the time and will be looking for the lovely Amy tomorrow night!
 
Thanks, Sharon!!
 
Uncle Al  (W3854)
..
Subject: to glass or not to glass - that is the question
----- Original Message -----
From: Rob Wierdsma  (W7372)
Sent: Monday, March 24, 2008 9:24 AM
Subject: Refinishing Rudder

Al,
 
I’m refinishing the solid mahogany rudder on my new (to me) W7372 and wondering about the benefits of using epoxy and fiber or just applying a number of layers of a good varnish.  I’m not sure about the requirement for re-enforcing on the blade itself.  
 
I have just had the rudder head rebuilt and it is in good shape. I am in the process of determining the best location for the pintle and gudgeon but have that well in hand.  I also intend benefit from the info from our recent MSC Sailors' Gathering where Peter Reed advised us that 90% of boats do not enjoy alignment of rudder and centreboard.
 
If you can shed some insight on the epoxy vs just varnish question for the rudder blade, I’d appreciate it.
 
Rob

----- Original Message -----
To: Rob Wierdsma  (W7372)
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2008 8:59 PM

Hi, Rob:
 
I very much recommend glassing one's wooden centreboard and rudder blade. The added strength is worth its weight in gold. A layer of glass cloth does not add much in the way of weight or thickness but do make sure that your finished blade will still fit between the cheeks of the rudder stock by doing a test piece - I seem to recall that a layer of medium weight (about the thickness of the stuff you'd get in a kit at Canadian Tire) WEST epoxied onto both sides of a board I made in 1976 added 3/32" to the thickness of the bare wood?
 
Remember that rudders and centreboards tend to have to deal with a fair bit of stress, and that of all the things you don't want breaking, your foils head the list. To give you an idea of how well glassing works: In the late 70's, I made several boards and rudder blades from laminated cedar which is light but breaks very easily - as wood goes. By adding the glass, I have been lucky enough to have only one item (rudder blade in race 8 of the 2004 Worlds on a wild plane) break in nearly 30 years of extensive use.
 
Hope this helps!
 
Best regards,
 
Uncle Al  (W3854)

PS: I'm intrigued by the mis-aligned CB - rudder bit. How did Peter recommend that one check?


----- Original Message -----
From: Rob
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 9:54 AM
Subject: alignment

The eye ball method.  With your boat turned over or on its side and both foils extended, stand at the bow and visually line the two up.  Are they both in the same plane?  Chances are they are not.

...
Subject: former W5223, Gord Zimmerman and Lady Simcoe to head south again next winter
----- Original Message -----
From: Gord Z
Sent: Monday, March 24, 2008 8:31 AM
Subject: 1979 North Bay - four pages of nostalgia photos now posted

Hi Al & Julie,

Thanks for the pics which brought back a lot of great old memories.  I'm still out here sailing on Lake Simcoe - will be taking Lady Simcoe back to the Bahamas next winter.  Had a great adventure with Paul & Sheryl Shard.  Helped them on their new boat Distant Shores which we sailed from Chichester, England to The Canaries.  Anyway, Happy Easter and have a good year.

Gord Z (W5223)
 

 
----- Original Message -----
To: Gord Z
Sent: Monday, March 24, 2008 9:03 PM

Hi, Gord:
 
Great to get an update from you!! Will put this into the next Weekly Whiffle, and speaking of which, I'd love to be able to post weekly updates as you take Lady Simcoe down south next winter. Any hope of that?? Wow! Chichester to Canaries, what a voyage!! Must have been a fine adventure!!
 
Enjoy your spring and summer and do stay in touch!
 
Best regards,
 
Uncle Al  (W3854)
...
Subject: fond memories of those fun, informative Guelph seminars run by Tim France
----- Original Message -----
To: Tim France
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 10:12 AM
Subject: efficient sailing

... I was just thinking back fondly this morning to those seminars you used set up in Guelph. One of these days I'll update that "Efficient Sailing" blurb I created for those - perhaps even today?
 
Best regards,
 
Uncle Al  (W3854)


----- Original Message -----
From: Tim France
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 10:51 AM
Subject: Efficient Sailing

Hi Al:

Funny you should mention those seminars of years past, for the same thoughts have been in my own mind - particularly your effective presentations on Efficient Sailing. These thoughts were particularly strong when viewing your log on last year's Chesapeake cruise - some of your photos and comments on sail sets really hit a chord with me. Well done!

Tim


----- Original Message -----
To: Tim France
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2008 11:41 PM

Hi, Tim:
 
Have at last added to Efficient Sailing, the stuff that was really brought home to me during last year's Chesapeake Cruise - see below
 
Best regards,
 
Uncle Al  (W3854)
 
 
 
 
When you are overpowered upwind, the vang does two extremely important things: It flattens your main by bending the mast (above), and secondly, but no less important, it keeps absolutely essential tension on your main leech, letting you keep pointing even when you have to rag the main to spill wind and keep the boat reasonably flat.

 

In the pictures above, notice the leech tension we're getting (right), even from our "blown-out" old main, which in turn is bending the mast - all due to applying lots and lots of vang. On the left, only the upper mainsail is falling off, a sure sign of too little vang, and because Richard and Michele are having to spill some wind, they're getting too little leech tension. This hurts in two ways: pointing will be poor, and the mast is not being bent to flatten (depower) the mainsail. 

I have found this out the hard way, by getting axed in a race, when I experimented with ragging the unvanged main, having brilliantly figured out that this would luff the top of the main first and would ease a lot of the heeling forces much sooner. Obviously that had to be faster! Alas, it took less than a single beat and our having plummeted from a great, race-leading start to 9th place, to discover that the reality did not match the theory. It would be another 10 years before Mike Mac would provide me with a reason: the boat points on main leech tension. This is in fact the main reason why Wayfarers have gone to adjustable spreaders. These can be (and are, for a blow) set to help the mast resist being bent, which in turn lets you have more leech tension in the main which has to be pulled down by the vang that much harder before the mast is willing to bend, and presto, better pointing even when the sail is well ragged!
...
Subject: Wayfarer NCA's to get national pennants courtesy of the WIC
----- Original Message -----
From: Ralph Roberts
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 7:07 AM
Subject: NCA Pennants

Al, Poul,

It was decided at the last WIC Committee meeting that the WIC should sponsor up to 2 pennants for each NCA, similar to the ones used by the SWS and NEDWA, giving each NCA the opportunity to order additional pennants if they so wished. It would appear that each pennant could cost around £50, and I therefore wonder whether sponsoring just 1 pennant per NCA would be a more realistic ambition with regard to the WIC finances. Perhaps you could give your opinion on this, together whether it would be worth the cost of also having a pennant made for the WIC, to be flown at WIC organised events. These pennants are large - 3' high by 6' 9" long (0.9m X 2.05m), and attached is a picture showing them flying at last summer's International Rally
 


I attach the original designs of the NCA pennants drawn by Lars Kristensen, as well as an alternative design I have drawn for the UKWA Pennant, (together with a comparable sized version of Lars design). Since the red ink of the marker I was using tended to run, my drawing is rather less accurate than Lars version, but nevertheless shows how the design would appear if the lettering were kept vertical. I propose to submit the drawings to the next UKWA meeting for them to consider which design they would prefer.

Best wishes, Ralph


Lars design


Ralph's alternative


----- Original Message -----
To: Peter Rahn W286 ; Paul Robinson W10131 ; Kit Wallace W1037 ; John de Boer W7351 ; Heider Funck W600 ; George Blanchard W4600 ; Geoff Edwards W9483 ; Fred Black W7379 ; Frank Goulay W648 ; Alastair Ryder-T W10137 ; Al Schonborn W3854
Cc: Ralph Roberts W9885 ; Treasurer USWA - Paul McVey ; Dick Harrington W887 ; Morris Metcalf W10295 ; Robin Moseley W1445 ; Tim Koontz W2253 ; Tom Graefe W9668
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 10:20 AM

Hi, gang:
 
Have agreed on CWA's behalf that one WIC-funded pennant per NCA should be ample. I like the design proposed for CWA's pennant as shown in the PDF - any other opinions?
 
Best regards,
 
Uncle Al  (W3854)
 
cc: USWA Committee


----- Original Message -----
To: Al Schonborn ; Ralph Roberts

Greetings all,
 
I'm a bit surprised as I was thinking that what was coming was a single universal Wayfarer pennant.  The customizing per various national organizations seems to complicate things as well as add to the cost.  Is this really necessary?
 
DICK


----- Original Message -----
To: Richard Harrington ; Ralph Roberts
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 11:35 AM

And here I thought that I was the only one who had assumed that we would have just the one international Wayfarer pennant. I agree with Dick, really, that a single universal W pennant would be better - perhaps the one designed for the WIC which in that case might look even better with only the W insignia on it (i.e. no IC)?
 
Best regards,
 
Uncle Al  (W3854)
...
Subject: Andrew Haill to experiment with Mk III drain tubes
----- Original Message -----
From: Andrew Haill  (W9657)
Cc: Richard Johnson W10139 ; dave /carol Hansman
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 10:04 PM
Subject: bailers W Mk III

Hi Al /  Richard / Dave
 
my reply below in blue
 
hope all is well
Andrew
----- Original Message -----
To: Andrew Haill
Cc: Richard Johnson W10139
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2008 9:52 AM

Hi, Andrew:
 
Will post your thoughts in tonight's Weekly Whiffle. Perhaps that will bring forth further suggestions. Will do my usual comments in green below.
 
Take care,
 
Uncle Al  (W3854)
 
PS: Have copied Richard who should find your thoughts interesting and perhaps worth commenting on?
 
 
----- Original Message -----
From: Andrew Haill
Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2008 9:44 PM

Al
 
Interesting discussion in the latest Whiffle.  I had a conversation with Richard at the Midwinters about this very topic.  Like him, I've been thinking of adding stern drainage in my boat although other projects and a difficulty in finding suitable fibreglass tube precluded it.  Perhaps this year.   It should work on any W version, but on the Mk III, the floor is about the same level as the bottom of the transom so a drainage tube would be nicely horizontal.  The maximum size is identified under the rules as two tubes of nominal 4" size which should be quite enough and a big improvement over what can go out the floor bailers.
If the drain tubes can be level, that will be a big help. I didn't realize that they can be. It would be interesting to do some tests on such a system as you propose to do. I suppose that, in theory, the boat should drain itself once it is righted. The question would be how long this would take.
It wouldn't really matter... I'm not proposing to wait in the water for the boat to self-drain...  the advantage would be much faster drainage once sailing than achievable through the floor bailers (although I do think the water present after a capsize would tend to self drain to some extent even with the crew in the boat).   But with stern tube sailing drainage, one might not even need much use of the bucket because the water would go out pretty fast.
And then, the matter of climbing back into a high-floating Mk III with its lack of handholds, raises its ugly head - especially for those of us who are not as spry as we used to be.   I went swimming off the CL at Hilton Beach in 2006 and had a heck of a time climbing back in, unlike in the wood boat where you can get a nice grip on the inside edge of the deck.
A non-issue.  The Mk III is not a CL16 ... see photo of my boat below... there is essentially as good a grip as in a wood boat or Mk I... in any case, one is usually scrambling in off the board as it rights and not directly from the water.
 
 
 And even so, I am still thinking off installing/bringing along a climbing aid - perhaps nothing as fancy as Tom Graefe's but something homemade as per the Chuck Jordan idea -  I like the wood one.  This would be a worthwhile safety thing to have permanently attached and accessible from the rear deck.  Wet clothing weighs a ton and makes a mockery out of all that off season chin-up training when trying to get back in the boat from the water.
 
 
Many dinghies (regardless of floor buoyancy tanks) have stern bailers... they seem to work, and generally improve safety.  The goal - particularly in cold or rough conditions - is to keep the crew out of the water and get the boat stable, dry, and sailing again a.s.a.p.  Anything that gets the ice-cube water of Lake Superior out of the boat fast after the dreaded capsize would be a benefit.
The older I get, the more I'm inclined to believe in getting back into the re-righted boat a.s.a.p. rather than waiting for it to drain.   Not sure where the impression arose regarding waiting in the water for the boat to drain... that's not at all what I'm proposing.  I want out of the water and in the boat a.s.a.p.  I do suspect stern drainage tubes will not only get some water draining out immediately (as discussed with the math in following paragraph), but by emptying the boat quickly with fast drainage once sailing there will be a lot less water sloshing about for a lot less time and much less possibility of recapsizing.   In short, back into the game and safer faster. 
I have the distinct feeling that by sitting both people well aft immediately after righting and bringing the board all the way up, the Scott Town-suggested method of just sailing away on a broad reach should work - and a pair of drain tubes would quickly remove any water that doesn't go out over the aft tank in the first forward surge. 
 
Without finding some tubing commercially, my plan was to make approx 4" dia. fibreglass tubes by wrapping cloth around a piece of pipe as a mold.  Cut holes in transom and rear bulkhead, fibreglass the tube ends into those transom/ bulkhead holes, a bit of gel coat here and there, add shock corded transom flaps with a rubber gasket seal, and use a couple of 4" hand hole access ports on the rear bulkhead openings so the drainage tubes can be screwed shut and made watertight for sleeping in the boat.  Should just take a couple of hours. Ha.!
Indeed!!
 
A Mk III with open bailers has a dry floor until you stand in it and water starts coming in.   It shouldn't sink too far before the buoyancy of the front and rear tanks provides equilibrium again ( the average 360 lb crew would need only about 6 cu. ft of additional displacement with water at 62 lb/cu.ft).  Just the rear tank alone (at say 5-ft width x 2-ft length) provides that with an 8" submergence.  A test is needed... open the bailers... add the crew ... drink a beer and see just how much water comes in.  I'd guess the actual sinkage with open bailers should be less than the depth of water that frequently sloshes around after a capsize - meaning given half a chance some water might even drain out on its own accord.  Even if not, stern drainage tubes would get the water out far faster than the floor bailers once sailing and eliminate much of the instability that follows a capsize (the Mk III is particularly prone to this problem with all that water sitting on top of the under-floor buoyancy tank).   Looking at the pictures of the new Hartley W that Kit took in London, it would appear it has under-floor buoyancy too, so there shouldn't be too much difference between the drainage setup of the HW version and tubes installed on a Mk III.  In short, it should work.  Al's note: see also page 5 of the Hartley brochure
 
I am in full agreement with Richard's observations on the sealing of the rear hatch of the Mk III.  It leaks as he noted, and it is difficult to achieve reliable buoyancy and maintain reasonable access.  Although the Mk III is generally a fine boat, this is one of a number of aspects that could easily have been done better.  My hatch modifications and some other items are listed somewhere in the WIT.  I would suggest adding the righting line to anyone concerned about quick recovery and turtling issues.
I just re-read your W modifications article and am again impressed.  thanks.  The righting line sounds a fine addition.
 
The other thing I was pondering is whether one could fill the top of the mast with foam... say the expanding type used in home renovations.  There might not be much volume there, but even a few pounds of floatation force at the mast tip would be helpful in slowing the roll-over tendency.  Assuming a 2" dia. mast section, about 3 feet of foam would provide 4 lbs of buoyancy (the equivalent of a bag of sugar) at the mast end.  If an inner tube is sufficient (assuming it's not from a truck), a foam filled mast tip should be roughly equivalent.
What would you do about the main halyard getting past the foam? And how would you get the foam in there? Seems to me like the bicycle inner tube or Richard's pool noodle would be an easier option?
Easier but the aesthetics suffer significantly.   As for the halyard passage problem,  one solution would be to fasten to the halyard end as thick piece of rope as will fit through the mast base entrance pulley.   Haul up to the mast head and tension.  Use a long tube to extend the foam can nozzle to reach down inside the mast from the top.   Insert foam as one extracts this filling tube from the mast.  When foam is essentially hardened pull the thick rope back out.  Voila, a larger diameter hole through the foam that the halyard passes through.  I'd probably refine this by wrapping the rope with some tape/plastic/ paper etc.,  to ease separation from the foam.    Having a bit of buoyancy at the mast would be a good thing -  and it being internal even better.
 
As for the sloshing water over the back tank theory.  Put me down as a bit skeptical.  That would require a significant sinking of the stern of the boat and as noted, the buoyancy of the rear tank would seem to make this difficult.   Besides, a foot of water in a W weighs over a ton and makes it tough to gain much in the way of sudden motion. 
I don't imagine it would take much sudden forward motion to slop the worst of the water out? What I expect Scott pictured was for helm and crew to move well aft and at the same time sheet in and go - the water would rush aft and the beginnings of forward motion should help the slop effect.  All I know for sure is it moves sideways pretty fast compared to the boat accelerating.
 
Cranking the sails in to attempt this (at least in my albeit limited experience) is much more likely to get the boat heeling and water rushing sideways to create another capsize than it is to go over the back. 
Not if you sail away on a broad reach!!   But you still need to achieve steerage way to get to that broad reach and the sloshing problem happens fast with water on top of the Mk III buoyancy tank.   I'm not saying it won't work ... just that in my bathing experience it seems questionable.   Cranking in sails to get water draining from the tubes will be a more sure thing than slopping it over the back tank whether on a broad reach or not.
 
It might work in some situations but a second choice I think to vigorous bailing with the board up and jib backed as you described. 
Backing the jib is for heaving to, which I don't like the thought of with the boat full of water. After a capsize, Marc and I let both sails rag completely, and get the board full up as soon as we get back into the re-righted boat, which in my experience lets the boat stabilize itself sideways to the wind without help from the rudder - a good position from which to begin sailing the water out after a bit of bailing. Regardless of the W type, to sail dry, you want the bow out of the water as much as possible, i.e. both crew on aft tank or near that.   I've had good success with the heave to while bail out approach.... no problems, jib backed and all... if nothing else getting the jib quiet seems to improve ones sense of calm in the recovery from the recent panic.   Maybe there is a down side, but what is it?  Al's note: If it worked for you, then there is no downside that I can see. I'm assuming that even sheeting the main half-way in as required by the heave to process, you didn't heel too much. I guess that as long as there is no appreciable forward motion, some heel won't be a killer.
 
However even better might be having a set of stern drainage tubes with which one could sail the water rapidly out of the boat.  I think I've talked myself into another boat project.
I'll look forward to your reports on how this works out!!   There may be a few other projects in the way first... but I think it could work.
 
cheers
Andrew Haill
W9657

----- Original Message -----
To: Andrew Haill
Cc: Richard Johnson W10139 ; dave /carol Hansman
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 9:55 PM
Subject: bailers W Mk III

Hi, Andrew:
 
Too late for me to get into much tonight. You seem to have everything well in hand and nicely figured out. All in all, I can see no flaws in your reasoning anywhere, though I must confess that I'm surprised you had no trouble heaving to with a boat full of water. And, the way I get underway after sitting sideways to the wind with the board full up and the sails luffing, is to sheet the jib in gently until the boat (a) gathers way, and (b) bears away.
 
Good night for now.
 
Best regards,
 
Uncle Al  (W3854)
 

----- Original Message -----
From: Andrew Haill
Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 12:52 AM

Hi Al
 
I've felt very comfortable with the heave-to approach (in fact I thought that was how one was supposed to do it) and the boat seems to respond pretty much as it does when eating lunch between races.    In any case, it was the "cranking in sails" part of the slosh water theory that caught my skepticism.  Gently pulling in the jib sounds very effective to get the boat on that broad reach but might not create the tidal wave desired to spill water over the back.  Any time I've tried to start moving again with a boat full, the resulting little bit of heel makes it all want to shift sideways and requires some pretty quick balance work to keep the boat on its feet.   The drainage tubes would hopefully shorten that vulnerable period and quickly get one stable and sailing again with minimal bailing. 
 
cheers
A


... and an exchange between Andrew and Richard:
----- Original Message -----
From: Andrew Haill
To: Johnson, Richard ; Al Schonborn
Cc: dave /carol Hansman ; Tony Krauss W4105
Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 8:54 PM
Subject: Re: bailers W Mk III

Some thoughts below in red
cheers to all
Andrew
----- Original Message -----
From: Johnson, Richard
To: Al Schonborn ; Andrew Haill
Cc: dave /carol Hansman
Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 7:54 AM

Dear all,
            
I’m interested in reading all of this.  I’m afraid I will not be an early adopter but might be a close follower.

 
Another idea I considered, and most likely without merit, but the idea is this.  I found a company that makes a pourable two- part closed cell foam that does not expand.   My thought was this.  Fill in the area in the rear tank which is lower than the floor with closed cell foam to make the two level.  Finish the closed cell foam with epoxy to seal.  Then make opening in the rear cockpit bulkhead and the transom.  I would then add long air buoyancy bags fore to aft, along the inside of the cockpit.  You lose some cockpit utility and when you cruise everything needs to be in dry bags.
This sounds like the final result might sort of approximate the Hartley W ... except they use permanent side flotation tanks and smaller holes.  I wouldn't do this nor recommend it... It would weaken the structure of the boat and wouldn't improve the self drainage if at all... in fact I think the boat would sink lower as air bags would tend to pull upwards away from the floor and would require greater depth of water to be effective than the fixed tank.  It would get water out fast once underway but would seem to me to have significant disadvantages, and is really serious and unnecessary surgery on the boat, not to mention not covered by the rules.  Al's note: side buoyancy also tends to make the boat want to invert/turtle and might well make it hard/impossible to get back onto the board from a swimming position that you sometimes can end up in.
 
My thought would be that upon righting the boat the water would automatically flow aft and I would hope out.  I would make the opening large enough that the water flow would be very fast. How fast? Good question.
As noted in my initial email I think the boat will only recover to the sink depth it would achieve if you got in and opened the floor bailers.... I kind of suspect this will result in about 4" of water in the boat .... and should be the depth eventually achieved after natural drainage of the likely higher post-capsize water level through the drain tubes.  But the head difference is very small and thus the driving force to drain relatively low.  The real advantage of stern drainage comes when the boat starts moving and some 'suction' effects start to come into play to remove the water.
 
A 4” round hole say 24” long offers a volume of 4.93 liters x 2 = 9.86 liters.  That would be the bottle neck.  The volume shouldn't much matter, it's the flow rate through the opening that should be most relevant... and one could jam a lot of water through two 4" dia. holes.
 
I guestimate that if you had 6” water in the cockpit you would have 424 liters of water also 424 kgs or 932 lbs. ( 72” long x 60” x 6”) Here’s where it gets tricky and keeps me awake at night.   To clear the boat of the water you need to slightly sink the transom. The water rushes aft further sinking the transom.  Will there be enough floating moment ( sorry, real engineers)  in the aft half of the boat to clear water?
Not sure what you mean by clear the water.  I don't think you can clear the boat of water ... with you and crew in it and an open hole to the lake it can only recover to the equilibrium position as noted above.  That however should be less water than after the capsize which is anywhere up to a foot.  Say the back tank is 5' wide and 2' long.  Probably about 1.5' high.  Completely submerged, that will provide about 940 lb of buoyancy.   The advantage of the drain tubes comes in rapidly clearing the water once the boat is moving...  it usually takes some time to drain through the floor bailers once sailing.... stern tubes would just significantly decrease that by allowing the water to exit the boat quickly... not so much by gravity, but what would seem to me primarily the suction forces created by the boat motion.
 
My concern is that upon the initial slosh aft the back of the boat would sink and then a certain equilibrium achieved where no water would leave.   Any part of the boat that is out of the water is of no value in terms of lifting the partially sunk part.  
This would seem true whether a drainage tube exists or not.
 
If I were doing this as an experiment, I would do the following.
 
1)       On the average capsize with a boat that has air tanks in good working order, what is the volume of water in the boat, and therefore the weight?
2)       Given this volume of water, and the top of the rear bulkhead as a limiting factor ( more than that the water sloshes over), where would the water reach in the cockpit?  In cross section, the water would look like a triangle.
3)       Given this information, you could determine the weight of water per linear inch of cockpit which would increase as the measurement moved aft.
4)       The next question would be, what volume of air do you need to offset a liter, and therefore the total volume of water in the cockpit?
a litre of air would displace a litre of water... but that is not presumably what you mean?
5)       More importantly, what is the volume of air in a Mk II and where is it in the boat? Where is it in reference to where the water is in the cockpit?
6)       I would think that it would be important to match flotation volume to water volume and that the volume of air should have a positive lifting value versus the water in the cockpit.
7)       If you could demonstrate that with the average or even worst case water volume in the cockpit, sloshed to the back of the cockpit, at max. height, that there was a positive lifting energy (sorry, real scientists) versus the weight of the water, then you could argue that there would be a positive flow out of the cockpit. 
 
Regardless of boat position there should only be positive water flow out of the boat if the level of the capsize water is higher than the boat would normally have with the bailers open ... i.e. with empty Mk III boat and bailers open ... no water... Get in and wait and eventually you have what?  4" depth?.  Any water level higher than that after a capsize will want to flow naturally out of the boat... but the boat cannot completely drain no matter what static position you put it in.  The rationale for the stern tubes is not self drainage but get the boat moving and add the suction and dynamic effects that allow the bailers to work.  Big drain tubes .... now you have fast drainage.   That's how it seems it would work to me anyways.
 
The good news is that once  water began to flow that the ratio of weight to buoyancy would only get better.  Sounds like an excellent Calculus problem.  Unfortunately I’m a liberal arts major from Farmville, Va.

I think until we can answer these questions, or perhaps even more relevant questions posed by a real engineer or scientist, that any change to the boat would only be an educated guess.  This is why I hesitate to do anything.  I like the idea of the bailers (Al's note: drain tubes???). I think it would add to safety, I think it would work, but I think there are some fundamentals that need to be looked at first.

Kind Regards to all

Richard Johnson


That is quite an experiment and some pretty mean calculations.  I'll make only slight claim to being a real engineer and alas, I've forgotten most of the calculus that got me through engineering school (which for their continued reputation I will not name) but I'll take a stab at this.  I might have to make a few assumptions that will no doubt be appalling to the more learned but please bear with me (not to mention forgive).
 
Firstly ....  the formula for drainage from a tank at atmospheric pressure (hopefully fairly safe to assume) is generally dictated by the following differential equation:
 

 
 to make things more difficult, however, the tank (cockpit) volume is also changing as we sink the stern, but if we consider it to primarily be triangular under the conditions described then it is clear that we can use the following:
 

 
Secondly the rearward sloshing of the water can probably best be approximated by this graphical relationship
 

 
Combining these two aspects, we can quickly see the water volumetric shape closely resembles the following
 


A little bit of elementary calculus will help define the volumetric change rate of the cockpit water with time
 

 
After expanding the formula with some turbulent fluid flow relationships primarily defined by:
 

 
... the next step clearly is substitution into the original differential equation for drainage, integrating, and solving for the resulting unknowns to easily provide the answer.  Rather than bore you with the final calculations, the results of this are probably best illustrated in pictorial form.
 

 
One more commonly sees another method of calculation utilized by those not so enamoured with the intricacies and joys of integral calculus.
 
 
 
PS ... the only part of this bs I even partly understand is the first equation... which actually is for drainage out of a tank.  It's amazing what Googling 'calculus equations' can come up with.  I doubt this adds much to the discussion but I had fun with it.  Enjoy.
 
cheers
 
Andrew
W9657
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Subject: Kit Wallace provides us with Hartley Wayfarer brochure
----- Original Message -----
From: Kit Wallace
Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 11:15 AM
Subject: Hartley Brochure

Hi Al,

I thought you might be interested in the new Hartley Wayfarer sales brochure that I picked up at the London Dinghy Show. I don't know whether Richard Hartley would object to this being put up on your web site, but I don't see why not, as there's no pricing information included.
 
Kit Wallace W1037
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